How to Grow Bulbophyllum Orchids, Secrets to Weird, Exotic Blooms

Tired of boring orchids? Discover how to grow Bulbophyllum orchids, the weirdest blooms in the plant world. Get expert tips on watering, humidity, potting and forcing flowers, even if you’re in tropical climates like Kenya.

Bulbophyllum orchids are among the most fascinating orchids you can add to a collection. They can be unusual, sometimes wonderfully strange, and their flowers often look completely different from the familiar Phalaenopsis orchids found in many homes.

But their unusual appearance comes with an important lesson: Bulbophyllum orchids are not necessarily difficult, they simply need the right growing conditions.

If you're wondering how to grow Bulbophyllum orchids successfully, the secret is to recreate, as much as practical, the warm, humid and consistently moist environments many species experience in nature.

From choosing the right light and potting medium to understanding watering, humidity, feeding and repotting, here's everything you need to know.

1. What Exactly Is a Bulbophyllum Orchid?

Forget the standard grocery-store Phalaenopsis. If you want an orchid that makes visitors stop, stare and ask, “What on earth is that?” it’s time to grow a Bulbophyllum.

This genus is one of the largest and most diverse in the orchid family. Instead of growing upright like a typical houseplant, Bulbophyllums creep along the surface, producing small, bulb-like structures (pseudobulbs) at intervals. Some form tight clumps; others spread like a green spider across their pot or mount.

And then there are the flowers

Some look like delicate glass sculptures. Others resemble fuzzy aliens, hairy spiders or even rotting meat (yes, some smell like carrion to attract flies!). That incredible diversity is what makes collectors obsessed.

But here’s the good news: Bulbophyllums aren’t difficult, they just need the right environment. And that’s exactly what this guide will give you.

2. Where Do They Grow Naturally? (And Why It Matters)

To grow any plant well, you need to think like it. Where does it live in the wild?

Most Bulbophyllums hail from tropical and subtropical rainforests across Asia, Africa, Australia and the Pacific Islands. According to the American Orchid Society, many come from low- to mid-elevation equatorial forests.

In their native homes, they experience:

- Filtered, dappled sunlight (never harsh midday glare)
- High humidity (often 70–90%)
- Regular rainfall (they stay moist year-round)
- Constant, gentle air movement (breezes through the canopy)
- Warm temperatures (rarely dropping below 15°C)

So, when growing at home, your mantra should be:

Warm + Humid + Moist + Airy + Bright (but not scorching)

This is especially crucial if you’re growing in tropical regions. For example, growing Bulbophyllum orchids in Kenya is absolutely possible, you just need to compensate for lower ambient humidity with misting, humidifiers or enclosed growing spaces.

3. Light: Bright but Never Scorching

Lighting is the first thing to nail. Bulbophyllums are not sun-worshippers like Cattleyas or Vandas.

The Sweet Spot

- 2–3 hours of bright, diffused light per day is ideal.
- Aneast-facing window (morning sun) or a west-facing window (afternoon sun with shade) works perfectly.
- If you’re using grow lights, aim for1,500–2,500 foot-candles, bright enough to read by, but not harsh.

How to Read Your Plant

- Too little light: Weak, spindly growth, dark green leaves and no flowers.
- Too much light: Leaves turn yellow, develop brown sunburn spots or feel hot to the touch.

Pro Tip: If your window gets intense direct sun, hang a sheer curtain or place the orchid behind a taller plant to filter the rays.

4. Temperature: Why They Need a Tropical Sauna

Because the genus is so vast, temperature preferences vary. However, most Bulbophyllums thrive in a range of 15.5°C to 32.2°C (60°F–90°F).

The Golden Rule:

Know your species.
A high-elevation species from the Himalayas may appreciate cooler nights, while a lowland Thai species wants steady heat year-round.

- Warm growers (lobbii, B. echinolabium): Keep above 18°C.
- Cool/intermediate growers (grandiflorum): Can tolerate nights down to 12°C.

Important: Avoid sudden temperature drops. Bulbophyllums hate drafts from air conditioners or open windows in winter.

5. Humidity: The 60–90% Sweet Spot

If you ignore everything else, don’t ignore this. Humidity is the make-or-break factor for Bulbophyllums.

The American Orchid Society recommends 60–90% relative humidity for optimal growth.

How to Achieve High Humidity Indoors:

- Use a humidifier near the plant.
- Place the pot on a tray filled with pebbles and water (ensure the pot sits above the waterline).
- Group your orchids together, they create their own microclimate.
- Grow in a terrarium, greenhouse or glass cabinet with ventilation.

Critical Warning

High humidity DOES NOT mean stagnant air.
Warm, wet, still air is a breeding ground for fungus and bacteria.

Always pair humidity with gentle air circulation. A small oscillating fan running on low-speed works wonders.
Think: Humid air + gentle breeze = happy Bulbophyllum.

6. Watering: How Often & How Much (Hint: Don’t Let It Dry!)

This is where Bulbophyllum care differs from Cattleyas or Dendrobiums. Many orchid growers are used to letting the media dry out completely between waterings. Do not do this with Bulbophyllums.

The Rule:

Keep the medium consistently moist but never soggy.

- Water thoroughly when the top surface of the medium feels barely damp.
- In hot weather, that might mean every 2–3 days.
- In cool, humid weather, that might mean once a week.

How to Water Correctly:

1. Take the plant to the sink.
2. Run lukewarm water through the pot for 1–2 minutes.
3. Allow all excess water to drain completely.
4. Never let the pot sit in a saucer of standing water.

The Oxygen Factor:

Orchid roots need both moisture AND oxygen. If the medium stays soaking wet for days, the roots suffocate and rot. That’s why a well-draining medium is just as important as watering frequency.

7. The Perfect Potting Mix (Never Use Garden Soil)

Ordinary soil is a death sentence for Bulbophyllums. It suffocates roots and holds too much water.

Best Materials (Use Alone or Mixed):

- Fine orchid bark (pine or fir)
- Sphagnum moss (excellent for moisture retention)
- Tree fern fibre (airy and moisture-retentive)
- Perlite or charcoal (for drainage)

A Good All-Purpose Mix:

3 parts fine bark + 1 part sphagnum moss + 1 part perlite

Pot type matters too:

- Plastic pots retain moisture longer, great for dry homes.
- Terracotta pots dry out faster only, use if you can water frequently.

8. The #1 Mistake: Burying the Pseudobulbs

This is a common rookie error.

Many Bulbophyllums naturally grow with their pseudobulbs sitting on top of or slightly above the medium. Their roots act like stilts, clinging to tree bark in the wild.

What NOT to do:

- Do NOT bury the pseudobulbs deeply in the mix.
- Do NOT cover the creeping rhizome completely.

What TO do:

- Place the plant on top of the medium.
- Allow roots to grow down into the mix.
- Let the pseudobulbs rest at or just above the surface.

Why? Buried pseudobulbs are prone to rot, especially in high humidity.

9. Pot vs. Mount: Which Is Better?

Both work. Your choice depends on your species and your environment.

If you mount your Bulbophyllum, be prepared to water daily (or even twice daily) in hot weather unless you have a humidity-controlled room.

10. Feeding: Less Is More (Dilute, Dilute, Dilute!)

Bulbophyllums are active growers that don’t follow a strict winter dormancy. That means they appreciate regular feeding during active growth.

The Formula:

- Use a balanced or chid fertilizer (e.g., 20-20-20).
- Dilute to ¼ to ½ strength.
- Feed every 1–2 weeks during spring and summer.
- Reduce to once a month in autumn and winter.

Caution:

Never over-fertilize.
Excess salts build up in the medium, burn roots and cause leaf tips to turn brown.

If you’re unsure, flush the pot with plain water once a month to leach out accumulated salts.

11. Repotting: When & How (Let the Plant Tell You)

Don’t repot on a calendar schedule. Let the plant give you signs.

Signs You Need to Repot:

- New growth starting (the best time to repot)
- Medium breaking down (becoming mushy or compacted)
- Roots overcrowded (growing out of the pot)
- Medium staying wet too long (poor drainage)

How to Repot:

1. Gently remove the plant from its old pot.
2. Trim away dead or rotting roots.
3. Place the plant on top of fresh medium (remember pseudobulbs above the surface!).
4. Fill in around the roots, firming gently.

Wait 3–5 days before watering to allow root wounds to heal.

12. Why Won’t My Bulbophyllum Bloom? (And How to Fix It)

This is the most common and frustrating question. You’ve done everything right, but still... no flowers.

The Truth:

The exact environmental cues that trigger flowering in Bulbophyllums are not fully understood. Even experts admit this!

However, here’s what increases your odds:

The best strategy: Stop trying to force flowers. Focus on providing rock-solid, stable care. A healthy, unstressed plant will bloom when it’s ready. Sometimes the answer is simply more time.

13. 3 Best Bulbophyllum Species for Beginners

If you’re new to the genus, don’t start with a finicky species. These three are tough, forgiving and bloom relatively easily.

14. How to Divide & Propagate Bulbophyllum

Once your plant has grown into a large clump or long rhizome, you can divide it to make new plants.

The Rule of Thumb:

Each division must have at least 3–4 healthy pseudobulbs with their own roots.

Step-by-Step:

- Remove the plant from its pot.
- Use sterilized shears or a sharp knife (wipe with rubbing alcohol).
- Cut the creeping rhizome between pseudobulbs.
- Dust the cut ends with cinnamon powder or sulphur to prevent infection.
- Pot each division individually.
- Keep them slightly tropical for the first week to allow cuts to callus over.

15. Common Pests & Diseases (And Exactly How to Treat Them)

High humidity can invite unwanted guests. Here’s what to look for and how to act fast.

16. Summer vs. Winter Care: The Seasonal Shift

Your care routine must change with the seasons.

17. Bulbophyllum Care Cheat Sheet

Frequently Asked Questions

How often should I water a Bulbophyllum orchid?

Most Bulbophyllums prefer consistently moist media and should not dry out completely. Frequency depends on humidity, temperature and potting medium check the pot, not the calendar.

Do Bulbophyllum orchids need high humidity?

Yes. Most thrive at 60–90% humidity. However, high humidity must be paired with good air circulation to prevent fungal diseases.

Can Bulbophyllum orchids grow indoors?

Absolutely. East and west-facing windows provide excellent light. You may need a humidifier or pebble tray to boost moisture levels.

What is the best potting medium for Bulbophyllum?

Fine orchid bark, sphagnum moss, tree fern fibre or combinations. The key is moisture retention + excellent drainage + aeration.

Why is my Bulbophyllum not flowering?

Likely due to insufficient light, plant immaturity or inconsistent conditions. Focus on stable, healthy growth rather than forcing blooms, patience is key.

Can I grow Bulbophyllum orchids in Kenya?

Yes! In tropical climates like Kenya, use plastic pots (not terracotta), add sphagnum moss for moisture retention and consider a humidifier or enclosed growing space to maintain the 60–90% humidity they love.

The Secret to Success

If you take only one lesson from this guide, let it be this:

Don’t grow Bulbophyllum by following a calendar. Grow it by understanding its environment.

Check the humidity. Observe the roots. Feel the medium. Watch the new growth. Adjust when conditions change. And give the plant time.

Bulbophyllums reward patient growers with some of the most unusual, alien-like and breathtaking flowers in the orchid world. Once you understand what they’re asking for, what initially seems like a difficult orchid becomes a surprisingly manageable and utterly addictive one.

Happy growing!

Ready to Grow Bulbophyllum?

Ready to add a Bulbophyllum to your collection? The journey is half the fun. Every new root, pseudobulb and flower is another chapter in your orchid-growing story.

Drop a comment below with photos or a description and we’ll help you diagnose it!